17. Acquiring Your First Bee Colony:

Bees fanning the hive for air circulation

Collecting and settling the bees in the new hive.

Starting your first beehive is one of the most exciting moments in a hobby beekeeper’s journey. That small box of buzzing life represents not just honey, but a living community that will grow, adapt, and respond to how well you care for it. Understanding how to obtain a bee colony, what type to choose, and how to manage the first few weeks will set the tone for everything that follows.

How a Hobby Beekeeper Can Obtain a Bee Colony

There are several common methods for obtaining bees, and the right choice depends on your experience, budget, and local availability.

Finding and Choosing a Trustworthy Supplier

A good supplier is more than someone who sells bees—it’s someone who understands bees. Before placing your order, talk to local beekeeping clubs or associations; experienced beekeepers will quickly point you toward reputable breeders and warn you about unreliable ones. Trusted suppliers usually:

• Have several years of breeding or commercial beekeeping experience

• Offer queens with known genetics (gentleness, productivity, disease resistance)

• Are open about how they control pests and disease

• Offer support or guidance to new customers

If possible, visit the apiary in person. Clean equipment, healthy-looking bees, and a calm, confident beekeeper are good signs. And remember: a small delay in receiving bees from a careful beekeeper is better than a quick shipment from someone careless.

1. Buying a nucleus colony (nuc). This is the most popular and beginner-friendly option. A nuc is a small, established colony—usually 4–5 frames—containing a laying queen, worker bees, brood (eggs, larvae, capped brood), honey, and pollen. It’s essentially a miniature working hive.

2. Buying a full colony. Less common for beginners, this involves purchasing a complete hive with bees already established. It’s more expensive and requires confidence in hive handling and transport.

3. Catching a swarm. Swarms are free and exciting, but unpredictable. A swarm may or may not contain a good queen, and success depends on timing and skill. This is better attempted after gaining some experience.

4. Getting bees from another beekeeper. Local bee clubs are invaluable. Experienced beekeepers may sell nucs, donate splits, or help you source healthy bees suited to your local climate.

For most hobbyists, especially beginners, a nuc from a trusted local beekeeper is the safest and most reliable starting point.

What Is a Nuc vs a Full Colony?

Understanding the difference helps you set realistic expectations.

Nucleus Colony (Nuc)

A nuc typically includes:

• A proven, laying queen

• All stages of brood

• Worker bees of different ages

• Food stores (honey and pollen)

Advantages of a nuc:

• Easier for beginners

• Faster buildup than packaged bees

• Higher survival rate

• Bees are already organised and calm

A nuc grows into a full colony over several weeks.

Full Colony

A full colony occupies a complete hive box (or multiple boxes) and is already productive.

Advantages:

• Immediate strength

• Faster honey production

Challenges:

• Higher cost

• Harder to inspect and manage

• Less forgiving of beginner mistakes

For most hobby beekeepers, starting small with a nuc allows you to learn alongside your bees.

What to Do When Bees Arrive

The day your bees arrive can feel overwhelming—but preparation makes all the difference.

Before Arrival

Make sure you have:

• A fully assembled hive on a stable stand

• Frames fitted correctly with the foundation

• Entrance reduced (small opening)

• Clean water source nearby

• Smoker, hive tool, and protective gear ready

Place the hive in its permanent location before the bees arrive. Once bees settle, they should not be moved far.

Transferring a Nuc into the Hive

Choose a warm, calm day—late morning or early afternoon is ideal.

1. Open the hive gently. Light a smoker and give a small puff at the entrance.

2. Open the nuc box. Remove frames slowly, keeping them in the same order and orientation.

3. Locate the queen (optional but reassuring). You don’t need to find her, but if you do, handle that frame extra carefully.

4. Place frames into the hive. Transfer the nuc frames into the centre of the hive body. Maintain spacing and order.

5. Add remaining frames. Fill the box with empty frames on either side.

6. Close the hive calmly. Add the inner cover and lid. Avoid crushing bees.

The bees will quickly begin orienting themselves to their new home.

Helping Bees Settle Into Their New Hive

Bees don’t instantly feel “at home.” Your goal is to reduce stress and encourage stability.

Reduce Disturbance

• Avoid unnecessary inspections for the first 5–7 days

• Don’t move the hive

• Keep pets and people away from the entrance

Signs Your Colony Is Settling In

Within a week, you should see encouraging signs:

• Workers flying in and out with purpose, not clustering aimlessly

• Gentle fanning at the entrance (a sign they're ventilating and spreading the colony scent)

• The queen was released from her cage

• Fresh eggs, neat brood patterns, and new comb building

• Bees are taking sugar syrup steadily

A calm hive with growing activity usually means success. If in doubt, gently open the hive to make sure the queen is released. If not, you can manually release her by gently clearing the plug. You can then remove the empty queen cage from the hive.

Feeding (If Needed)

If there’s limited nectar flow, provide sugar syrup (1:1) to help them build comb and feed brood. Feeding is crucial:

• Early spring

• During drought

• If the weather is poor

Stop feeding once the natural nectar flow is strong.

First Inspection: What to Look For

After about one week, do your first inspection.

Key signs of success:

• Eggs or young larvae (proof the queen is laying)

• Calm behaviour on the frames

• Bees are beginning to draw out wax

• Nectar and pollen are being stored

If you see eggs, that’s a huge milestone—it means your colony is settling well.

Precautions for a Healthy Start

1. Don’t Over-Inspect

New beekeepers often inspect too often. Opening the hive too frequently:

• Chills brood

• Disrupts pheromones

• Stresses the colony

Once every 7–10 days is enough in the early weeks.

2. Watch for Pests

Check for:

• Ants around the stand

• Wax moth signs (especially in weak colonies)

• Small hive beetles (in warmer climates)

Good hive strength is the best defence.

3. Ensure Good Ventilation

Proper airflow helps regulate temperature and moisture. Inner cover holes or screened bottoms (where appropriate) are helpful.

4. Protect From Weather

• Provide afternoon shade in hot climates

• Ensure the hive tilts slightly forward to drain moisture

• Strap the hive to prevent wind damage

Managing the First Few Weeks

Weeks 1–3 are all about growth and observation.

Focus on:

• Queen performance (steady brood pattern)

• Comb building

• Food availability

• Colony temperament

Avoid adding extra boxes too early. Let the bees fully occupy and draw out frames before expanding.

If something feels wrong—no brood, aggressive behaviour, dwindling numbers—reach out to a local bee club or mentor early. Small problems are much easier to fix when caught early.

A Gentle Beginning Leads to a Strong Colony

Starting a hive is not about control—it’s about partnership. Your bees already know how to be bees; your role is to give them the best possible conditions to thrive. By choosing the right type of colony, handling them gently when they arrive, and practising patient, observant management in the first few weeks, you give your hive the strongest possible foundation.

That first season isn’t about honey harvests—it’s about learning, listening, and watching a living system come to life under your care.